A Practical Travel Guide to India’s Coral Paradise, Lakshadweep

In March 2022, I embarked on a five-day, solo summer journey to paradise, packaged as the smallest union territory of India – Lakshadweep. To be honest, it felt like I died and went to heaven for those five days, if heaven were sunny, sandy and endlessly blue. Not only are the coral islands visually and soulfully breathtaking – crystal clear waters, powdery beaches, unbelievable marine life and the most welcoming people – but for the entire duration of my travel to Lakshadweep, I was without a care in the world, even when I lost my boarding pass, got bit by a fish and saw my return flight cancelled! Heaven, amirite?

While I will always rave about my travel adventures in Lakshadweep, there’s a small catch. Planning a getaway to Lakshadweep can get tricky – not because there’s a lack of information – it’s the opposite – but because there are quite a few moving parts involved. So, here’s everything I know about these ‘hundred thousand islands‘ in what I hope is a brutally honest and super practical guide to arm you with all you need to head to this coral paradise, with or without company.

About Lakshadweep

Although Lakshadweep is Sanskrit and Malayalam for a hundred thousand islands, the IRL count is a teeny fraction of this number. Twelve atolls, three reefs and five submerged banks house thirty-six islands to make up one of the most picturesque tropical island systems in the world. It’s more lagoon than land, with the former covering 4,200 km², while the latter totals up to a mere 32 km². Smog capital New Delhi, in comparison, is nearly 43 km².

Weather

Expect tropical weather, with an average temperature of 27° C to 32° C, the coolest months being December and January, and the hottest being April and May. Between June and October, the South West Monsoon is in full swing.

LAKSHADWEEP WEATHER

Coastal climate means humid, sunny, and warm weather. Mornings and evenings can be pleasant and breezy, while afternoons can get bright and sweltering. Agatti is somehow the hottest and most humid of all the islands.

Locals, Culture, and Language

The people of Lakshadweep are probably the kindest, friendliest and most helpful lot I’ve come across. Their willingness to not only strike a conversation but also readily offer a helping hand is a boon to many a traveller, especially when solo.

Food and Alcohol

Two words to describe the food in Lakshadweep? Comforting and delicious.

Expecting plush restaurants when you travel to Lakshadweep will leave you disappointed. You can find small cafes and eateries on local-inhabited islands. Typically, your accommodation will provide three meals and refreshments – enough to keep you satiated.

Since a majority of Lakshadweep’s population practices Islam, alcohol sale and consumption are prohibited, except in Bangaram, although it’s no party central!

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Lakshadweep Travel Planning

Here’s all you need to know about the islands you can visit, the best time to travel to Lakshadweep, how to get there, and more.

The Islands

Of the 36 islands, 10 are inhabited, of which only a handful are open to travellers. There are plans underway to open more islands and islets to tourism.

• Inhabited and open to tourists – Agatti, Kadmat, Kalpeni, Kavaratti, Minicoy
• Uninhabited and open to tourists – Bangaram, Pitti, Thinnakara
• Inhabited and not open to tourists yet – Amini, Androth, Bitra, Chetlat, Kiltan

Only Agatti, Bangaram and Kadmat are open to non-Indian travellers.

Best time to travel to Lakshadweep

October to April is the best time to travel to Lakshadweep – perfect beach weather. The peak tourist season is in winter, particularly in December, so expect hotel and resort tariffs to increase.

During monsoon, ship-based tourism is closed, although ships may continue operating for locals. Flights and helicopters may operate year-round, making accessibility to Agatti and Bangaram possible. While the rains give a splash of emerald and enhance the beauty of the lagoons, travel during monsoons is not advised.

I visited Lakshadweep towards the end of March, and it turned out to be a good time to travel – great beach weather without throngs of tourists.

Getting to Lakshadweep

There are only two ways in and out of Lakshadweep – air and sea.

If travelling from a city much further than Kochi (e.g., Delhi, Mumbai), book connecting flights via Air India itself. My return flight from Agatti to Bangalore was cancelled, which wasn’t an issue for me because I didn’t need a connecting flight. But those who did and had booked connecting flights on other carriers like Vistara had to rebook at an additional cost.

Ship – Seven passenger ships ply between Kochi and Lakshadweep. The travel time is anywhere between 14 to 18 hours, depending on the destination island.

At the time of my travels, only two ships were in operation.

Island hopping – Inter-island transport is by sea, with vessel sizes depending on the island’s distance. For instance, the vessel from Agatti to Kavaratti and back is a large carrier, while the one to Bangaram is a speed boat.

Travel within islands – On some islands, you can cover the distance from one end to the other on foot. In Agatti and Kavaratti, autos are available for hire. You may also find cycles and mopeds for rent.

Which Island to Visit, and What to Do

If only I could visit them all, I would!

While all islands may seem similar at the surface, each offers something unique and works for different budgets. I couldn’t travel to Kadmat, Kalpeni and Minicoy this time, so I stayed in Agatti, Kavaratti and Bangaram, and took a half-day trip to Thinnakara; here is my take on each.

But first, it’s important to know that most of Lakshadweep’s tourism is managed by SPORTS.

What is SPORTS?

The Society for Promotion of Nature Tourism and Sports, or SPORTS, was formed by the Lakshadweep Administration in 1982 to promote environmentally conscious tourism and to function as the hospitality wing of the Lakshadweep Administration.

SPORTS operates resorts in Bangaram, Kadmat, Kavaratti and Minicoy, tents in Thinnakara, and ship package tours across Kadmat, Kalpeni, Kavaratti, and Minicoy. The Society also operates State Guest Houses and Dak Bungalows of the Administration.

Whether you book directly or through a travel agent, permits, transfers and most accommodation (except in Agatti) will be via SPORTS.

Agatti

Air travel-wise, Agatti is your gateway into Lakshadweep since the island houses the Lakshadweep airport. From here, travellers are transferred to the islands of Bangaram and Kavaratti. A good number of travellers don’t stay here, choosing to head to other islands instead.

This doesn’t mean Agatti has nothing to offer. The turquoise waters of the lagoon are home to turtles, diverse corals and fishes in spectacular colours. Kayaking, sailing, snorkelling, scuba diving, fishing and water skiing await all those who choose to stay.

If you’re looking for a slow and serene tropical getaway with a flavour of local island life, Agatti is the island for you. It’s also ideal for those short on time or those who need to stick to a tight budget since accommodation rates start at INR 5,000 per night. If you choose to stay at Agatti, spend at least 2 days and 2 nights here, if not more.

Accommodation in Agatti – Agatti has no SPORTS-managed accommodation for tourists. SPORTS only operates a Union Territory Guest House, which is meant for government officials and contractors, and as a transit rest-stop for travellers flying into Agatti and then travelling to other islands.

Privately managed accommodations – from resorts to homestays – can be found in Agatti.

You can add Agatti to your island-hopping itinerary as well, choosing to spend at least a day here before, in between or after your time on other islands.

Bangaram

The poster child of Lakshadweep, the tourist-only island of Bangaram is perfect for beach bums, with its jewelled waters and nearly snow-white sand. Save the staff of the Bangaram Island Resort and their families, you won’t find locals here.

Hushed days, balmy evenings and star-speckled nights welcome all who stay at Bangaram. From snorkelling at the coral gardens and the shipwreck, and scuba diving, to crossing the lagoon during low tide to get to a private sandbank, your days will dreamily pass by with a blissful ‘vacay-mode-on’ vibe. The lone resort offers a recreation room with a lounge area, some games, and a decently stocked bar. And if you’re lucky, you may catch bioluminescence as you walk along the shore after dinner!

While Bangaram is perfect for all types of travellers, the demographic skews toward honeymooners and families with small children. Still, I had the pleasure of making the acquaintance of solo travellers, friend groups, girls-only gaggles, and empty nesters.

Bangaram is a 45-minute speed boat journey from Agatti.

• For overnight stay at the resort, you will be transferred via a speedboat from Agatti. Spend at least 2 days and 1 night here.
• Since it’s close to Agatti, you can plan a day trip to Bangaram from Agatti, and return via the same boat. This works well for budget travellers since accommodation prices at Bangaram are pretty steep.

Accommodation in Bangaram – Bangaram Island Resort is the only accommodation available on the island. The resort has beach-facing single and double air-conditioned cottages.

You can book your stay here either through the SPORTS website or the Bangaram Island Resort website.

Kavaratti

The capital of Lakshadweep is a 2.5-hour sea journey from Agatti and is bustling with life – human, animal and marine. Kavaratti offers an ambient mix of seaside activities and a true feeling of Lakshadweep’s local life and culture. The scuba diving experience with the Kavaratti PADI-certified dive centre is phenomenal! In fact, it is quite affordable to dive here as compared to other places in India and abroad. Add to this the relatively cheaper stay as compared to Bangaram, it’s a steal to get PADI certified and spend a few days at Kavaratti.

Kavaratti is a haven for travellers who are looking to know more about Lakshadweep’s history and culture. You can spend a day exploring the island from the western jetty all the way to the eastern jetty where the larger ships such as MV Lagoons dock.

You can explore the island in less than half a day, on an auto or even a cycle. Observe the lighthouse from a distance (no entry inside, sadly), visit the Marine Museum, and pass chicken neck – the narrowest point of the island where you can see the lagoon side and the sea side together, walk to the site of an old beached ship, and chat with locals about their days on the island over a cup of coffee.

To experience the best of Kavaratti, spend at least 2 days and 2 nights here.

Accommodation in Kavaratti – Tourist stays are on the lagoon side of the island, close to the Western jetty. Expect busy views of the lagoon, with transit vessels and fishing boats docking in and out.

Paradise Island Hut Resort is the SPORTS accommodation available in Kavaratti. 6 air-conditioned double rooms are available.

There are also private homestay options available.

Thinnakara

A teardrop-shaped uninhabited island merely 20 minutes away from Bangaram, Thinnakara previously had tents for tourists to spend a few nights in, which were removed, thanks to COVID. They could return in the near future.

Still, a day trip from Bangaram is possible, with turtles giving you company as your boat makes its way across transparent waters that show off massive coral gardens. At Thinnakara, you can walk the length and breadth of the island and then cut through the middle to visit the lone house whose inhabitants serve sweet elaneer (tender coconut water), fresh toddy and even some mouth-watering coconut jaggery.

Accommodation in Thinnakara – Only non-air-conditioned tents are available here. At the time of my travels, there were no tents on the island.

Kadmat, Kalpeni and Minicoy

Visiting the islands I missed out on is definitely in my plans for the near future, so until then, this is all I have on Kadmat, Kalpeni and Minicoy.

Kadmat Island Beach Resort has 36 sea-facing air-conditioned rooms and a few standard non-a/c rooms.

Minicoy Island Resort is a 20-bedded stay on the southern side of the island, close to the lighthouse. Each cottage has an open-to-sky bathroom with coral-laid flooring.

Besides these, private stays are available.

Packages and Other Accommodation

Besides the above, you can travel to Lakshadweep through package tours from SPORTS, or private travel agency packages.

Packages under SPORTS

These packages are a no-brainer for hassle-free travel to Lakshadweep since nearly everything except flights – accommodation, permits, transit fees, food and refreshments – is covered. Water sports may require an additional payment over the package rates.

Package Name	Tour type	Travel by	Islands	Stay
Samudram	5-day cruise	Ship	Kavaratti, Kalpeni, Minicoy	Ship
Swaying Palm	6-7 days	Ship	Minicoy	Cottage
Marine Wealth Awareness	4-7 days	Vessel from Agatti	Kadmat	Cottage
Taratashi	4-5 days	Vessel from Agatti	Kavaratti	A/C room
Scuba Dive	5-8 days	Vessel from Agatti	Kavaratti	A/C room
Silver Sand	1-day	Ship	Kadmat/Kalpeni/Kavaratti/Minicoy	Ship

Details and bookings for SPORTS packages can be found/done here –

Packages through Private Agencies

Private packages from reputed travel agencies include cruises, on-island stays, water activities and sightseeing. Often, travel agents will make your stay arrangements through SPORTS-managed accommodations, except in Agatti.

While it’s tempting to plan a DIY trip, I strongly recommend having it managed by a private operator. They work closely with SPORTS to coordinate bookings, permits, fees, and transits. I went via Smile India, who had previously managed my family trips to Rajasthan and Bali.

Permits and Paperwork

Entry into Lakshadweep for tourists is strictly regulated, and a permit is required, for both Indian and foreign nationals.

To obtain a permit, keep the following handy –

As of March 2022, online applications for entry permits can be submitted.

Processing time – this depends on the type of stay chosen.

• If you opt for a SPORTS package or a SPORTS resort, the processing time is up to 2 working days after submission of all documents and full payment. Permits for those who’ve booked staying packages will be issued within 7 days of the journey.
• If you opt for a private hotel, resort or homestay, the processing time is 15- 20 working days after submission of all documents and full payment.

Booking a SPORTS package or SPORTS resort accommodation via a travel agent will minimise the documents required for the permit (no PCC required) and reduce the time taken to process the application.

What to Wear and Pack

For the most part, pack everything you usually would if you were travelling to any other beach destination. Still, note these important points.

Personal Care –

• Carry sunscreen, and reapply every 2 to 3 hours. I packed my trusted Earth Rhythm SPF 50 PA ++++ for the face and Biotique SPF 75 UVA/UVB Lotion for the body
• The resorts provide basic soap, so carry your own toiletries like toothbrushes, toothpaste, face wash, shampoo, conditioner, and body lotion
• A first-aid kit with antiseptic liquid/cream, cotton, band-aids, bandages and pills is always good to have, even though resorts may have a kit of their own. I found a dearth of supplies when I was bitten by a fish during a dive in Kavaratti
• Wet wipes and tissues for mid-journey refreshing

Wallet and documents –

• Boarding pass, entry permit, accommodation and itinerary documents, ID proof, COVID vaccination proof, and passport with valid visa (for non-Indian nationals)
• Cash in Indian rupees

Tech –

Refreshments –

• Snacks for transits and day trips.
• Lakshadweep follows a no-plastic bottle policy. Your stay will provide drinking water in glass bottles. Carry your own water bottle and refill it.

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Lakshadweep Travel Budgeting

Lakshadweep is at a considerable distance from mainland India. This alone drives up costs since supplies need to come from Mangalore or Kochi. The prices are also kept on the higher side to regulate the number of tourists that visit Lakshadweep – it’s why accommodation in Bangaram is relatively expensive. If you’re looking at Lakshadweep as a shoe-string budget destination, you might want to rethink your plans.

That said, a well-rounded trip to Lakshadweep within a sensible budget can definitely be planned.

Note: All costs are averages of estimates for one person, and are based on own expenses and available online data. Actual costs may be higher than indicated.

Travel and Transit costs

Lakshadweep Package costs

The below includes per person charges for transport, tour, food and accommodation where applicable, and does not include airfare, activity costs, taxes and other fees. I’ve provided the lower and higher limit costs only, for range estimation.

SPORTS Accommodation costs

These tariffs include per night pre-tax accommodation and three meals per day.

Water activities costs

• Scuba diving – PADI Open Water Diver Certification costs around INR 22,000 in Kavaratti, while PADI Discover Scuba Diving in Kavaratti costs around INR 3,600 per dive.
• Snorkelling – Costs vary by island. A snorkelling trip with a guide, boat and equipment costs INR 950 at Bangaram.
• Thinnakara Day Trip – A half-day trip from Bangaram to Thinnakara can cost between INR 600-INR 800.

Fees

• Permit processing fee – INR 200 for adults, INR 100 for children.
• Heritage fee – INR 200 per adult per island

Tipping

Although not mandatory, tipping is welcome and always appreciated.

Here are my hacks to save some big bucks when you travel to Lakshadweep!

• Planning in advance is key to getting accommodation and the best fares. Use Skyscanner to track dips in airfares.
• If you’re in South India, take a bus or train to Kochi and then fly from Kochi to Agatti. You can also spend a night in Kochi and explore the beautiful Fort Kochi area.

Suggested Read: My guide to making the best of a day or two in Kochi, under a tight budget.

• SPORTS packages offer the best of everything, for every budget. Choose one based on the islands you’d like to visit.
• Avoid staying in Bangaram if you’re on a budget. You can opt for a day trip to Bangaram and return to Agatti, instead of spending the night at Bangaram.
• Avoid travel to Lakshadweep in December, to save 10% on tariffs.
• Travelling in even numbers is cheaper since double room costs are halved, which then cost less than the single room tariff.
• Getting PADI certified in Kavaratti is value-for-money compared to other locations, both within and outside India.

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My Lakshadweep Itinerary and Cost

Since this was my first trip post the COVID-19 pandemic, my travel to Lakshadweep was a no-expense-spared, revenge-travel solo journey, one that I absolutely do not regret. 🙂 My original itinerary was only for Minicoy, but I guess the universe had other plans.

My Lakshadweep travel plan included 2 days and 2 nights at Kavaratti, 2 days and 2 nights at Bangaram, and 2 days and 1 night in Agatti since my return flight got cancelled.

• Day 1 – Depart Bangalore via flight and land in Agatti. Sea transfer from Agatti to Kavaratti
• Day 2 – In Kavaratti. Activities included scuba diving, an auto tour of Kavaratti
• Day 3 – Kavaratti to Agatti by boat. Sea transfer from Agatti to Bangaram. Activities in Bangaram included day-trip to Thinnakara
• Day 4 – In Bangaram. Activities included snorkelling at the coral garden and the shipwreck site, a walk to the sandbank to catch the sunset
• Day 5 – Bangaram to Agatti by boat. Spend a night in Agatti due to flight cancellation. Activity included walking around Agatti.
• Day 6 – Depart Agatti via flight, arrive in Bangalore

I spent INR 109,093 all-inclusive – even snacks, shopping and tips. Here’s a break-up of my costs.

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What you need to know before you travel to Lakshadweep

Here’s some important information that you need to know before you jet-set-go to Lakshadweep,

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Frequently Asked Questions

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Lakshadweep is an island destination that’s waiting to receive its fair share of attention, which it often loses to the likes of Andaman & Nicobar and the Maldives. Filled with marvels at every step of your journey, ones that somehow elevate your spirit yet calm your soul at the same time, a wonderful adventure awaits all who travel to Lakshadweep. This much I promise you. 🙂