Long touted as the ‘Scotland of India’ (got a rant about this at the end), this lush district in Karnataka holds the prestige of being the most affluent hill station in this south Indian state, and for good reason – the rolling plantations. Also, ask anyone what their first thoughts are about Coorg, and pat comes out of their mouth – coffee and pandi curry. Now, I can wax eloquent about the beauty of the scenery and natural landscape of Kodagu, as it is officially called, but why give you endless beat-around-the-bush points when I can sum up my thoughts into three reasons why a few days in Coorg ought to be in your checklist?
The landscape
Picture misty, carpeted hills cut by gurgling streams and rivulets, acres of plantations of coffee and spices, and gushy waterfalls amidst emerald forests, all the while listening to the sweet day calls of the birds and the rhythmic chirping of cicadas.
The breathtaking visuals of the hills of the Western Ghats and the mostly-pleasant weather draw nature lovers to Coorg, the calm of the countryside and the laid-back atmosphere are why those seeking a few days of Zen flock there. The myriad of bird species beckons avid birdwatchers, while the uneven landscape makes it a haven for trekkers.
While there are endless things to do in Coorg (I definitely do not condone the Dubare elephant camp!), I didn’t move around much during my time there. This city girl needed to rest her screen-time-overdosed body with eye-soothing views, so while my preferred things-to-do may seem more laid-back and even cliche, here they are (because there is definitely someone like me out there, craving for R&R).
- A visit to the best viewing point in the house – Raja’s Seat – a garden that offers a panoramic view of the mist-covered Western Ghats.
- An easy hike to Mandalpatti – another elevated point en route Abbey Falls – for fascinating views of the lush terrain.
- A visit to coffee plantations, walk around the plantation trails and savour fresh brews that will warm your heart.
The people of Coorg
Kodagu natives are proud of their culture and heritage. They hail from warriors, with many a general and above in the Indian army hailing from Coorg. Their proclivity for martial arts aside, they are people with great industriousness, infectious enthusiasm, and a delightful hospitable disposition.
Their willingness to share their heritage with visitors – from stories of their villages and plantations to taking you around their ancestral homes – and let others experience their unique culture won me over. Sharing stories and experiences are important when travelling; I believe with all my heart that a good travel experience is a sum total of many parts, and people and their stories are two important components of this totality.
If you get the chance, chat with a native for a while. It will be worth your time, I promise.
Coorgi food
What is a good getaway without good food? In Coorg, the food and the coffee will leave you wanting more!
Coorgi food is exceptional, partly because foreign influence did not make its way into their culinary habits, and because their dishes are liberally seasoned with fresh, locally grown spices. It is worth noting that most of their popular dishes are non-vegetarian – in the early days, the natives only ate what was available locally. This practice continues still, as most, if not all, ingredients are locally produced and sourced, which makes their food lip-smacking good. That said, they do have some pretty good vegetarian and vegan options – their staple carb is rice. Don’t miss their
- Pandi curry – traditional pork curry
- Nooputtu – Coorgi string hoppers
- Sannakki – fragrant rice
- Koovaleputtu – made with either jackfruit or banana and steamed in banana leaves. Surprisingly, this is savoury!
- Kajaya – a sweet made with jaggery and rice flour, and deep-fried. Love me some extra calories, not going to lie.
The coffee grown in Coorg is supposed to be the best mild coffee in the world. As my homestay host said, Coorg is best known for its Arabica and Robusta coffees. I highly recommend experiencing a plantation trail walk, where you will be taken around the best parts of coffee and spice plantations and will be talked through how the coffee is grown, harvested, dried and roasted. The trail ends with light snacks and of course, locally grown and produced coffee!
Details about Coorg you can’t miss
The best time to visit Coorg
This entirely depends on why you want to travel to Coorg.
Looking to simply unwind, relax, and explore this luscious bounty of nature on foot? September to June is great because the weather isn’t too hot, not too cold – it’s just right.
Trekkers, gather around from October to March – this is the best time to be outside and get those bodies moving in the bright sunshine and clear skies.
Late July and August are typically avoided due to heavy rainfall and landslides. However, if you plan to move around minimally – that is just around your plantation homestay and a few easy-to-reach sites – this time is great because all that rain adds so much vibrancy and life to this already lush place. It is a different kind of peace you will experience here, in the monsoon.
Avoid travelling to Coorg over the weekend, although this is probably the only time most will get to take short trips. Weekends will see some places packed with visitors, most from Bangalore (guilty!).
Where to stay
Madikeri is the centre, with all transportation – public and private – for getting around starting here. You will find several budget-friendly accommodations in Madikeri, although travellers prefer the countryside and plantation stays. Homestays are great options because they provide the comfort and inclusion of a home while being nestled between plantations.
Recommendation for a family-friendly/group stay
I spent two blissful days with my family at Pegvey Homestay, a plantation-cum-accommodation run by warm and hospitable hosts. and I recommend them with all my heart! Our stay was beyond comfortable – the rooms were clean and spacious, with a gorgeous view of the estate. The home-cooked food made using generations-old recipes was indescribably delicious and brimming with authentic Coorgi flavours.
In true Kodava hospitality, they welcomed us with cups of freshly brewed coffee, regaled us with tales of Kodagu’s rich culture and local deities, elucidated the differences between Arabica and Robusta, and introduced us to the resident dogs! We (a family of four) paid approximately INR 16,000/- for a two-day-one-night stay at Pegvey, inclusive of three meals and tea, which works out to INR 4,000/- per head per night.
To book your stay at Pegvey Homestay, contact M.C. Poovaiah/Dhiraj – at +91 9945516206
That rant I wrote about earlier?
I’ll be honest – I have an issue when the world finds it appropriate to reduce a place, especially one of immense beauty – natural or otherwise – to a comparison of a destination that is more globally recognized. I get the intention behind it; it is probably to make it more relatable to those who remain in the dark of said place, but the very fact that Coorg continues to be called the Scotland of India feels (to me) a bit insulting to Coorg, simply because Coorg is a rightful gem on its own, with its lush forests, rolling hills, delicious weather and even more delicious food. If you ask me, it should be called what it is – Coorg. Nothing more, nothing less. That ought to say it all. 🙂
