It was on a chilly December morning that I woke up in my room in Ranthambore, to the sound of bells clanging. Annoying as it was, I was no stranger to this sound, for I’d woken up to it almost every day. My alarm rang softly at first and then picked up the volume till I reached for my phone and hit the snooze button.
The space heater from across the room let out a low hum as it continued to lend the much-needed warmth. I sat up, huddled under the cosy comforter, half-ready to go back to sleep. The sun wouldn’t be up for another hour or so, yet I had to be. The prospect of chancing upon a tiger in the Ranthambore National Park jolted me out of the bed’s warm embrace. That and the knocking on the door that had ensued – probably the hotel staff making sure the room’s inhabitants woke up in time for the safari canter.
I dressed in many layers – I was no stranger to Rajasthani winters anymore. Common sense dictated I don as many pieces of warm clothing as possible; the morning forest air would be more than merely nippy. After a quick (and delicious and oh-so-warm) breakfast, we made our way to the haveli gate. The early morning fog, thick as cream, began settling around us. So dense was the fog that I could almost bite into it. It diminished visibility, so much so that the canter that awaited us just a few metres outside the gate couldn’t be seen.
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We’d pick up a group of dillydallying and raucous families with children who were on the non-cute side of boisterous. I sighed, knowing that a wildlife safari requires visitors to be quiet and still. And that this canter would offer none of these.
Another hour or so passed, and we entered Ranthambore National Park through the dilapidated arch of the Sawai Madhopur Fort. I was nervous and excited at the hope of spotting a tiger, maybe even a descendant of the famed Machali. My nerves were soon put to rest as more time passed, and I realized that we may not see a tiger. Or any other big cat.
But other creatures showed themselves. Gentle, meek beings are often considered lesser or complimentary sightings by avid safari-goers.
I think they are simply marvellous. It’s surreal to watch them graze without the threat of gunshots or predators, or care for their young as they peek shyly from behind tall grass. Some pick fruit off trees and seeds off the ground as their chirps trail away when they fly. Others, driven by curiosity and familiarity, come close to us, teasing us to touch them.
Perhaps one day, the tigers will show themselves as they do for many a lucky wildlife enthusiast. I’d give anything to come across even a footprint of the big cat, but I will make do with their gentler counterparts.
Ranthambore Stay and Safari details
Ranthambore Heritage Haveli is a lovely deluxe property in the Kilchipur village of Sawai Madhopur. The haveli is designed to look like a traditional palace and is simply beautiful in its architecture. It features amenities like a swimming pool, a bar, a souvenir store, and even an ATM and currency exchange facility! The staff are friendly, hospitable, and always ready to help. All these factors, including the clean and well-equipped rooms, make the Heritage Haveli well worth the tariff.
The Heritage Haveli has a tie-up with Ranthambore National Park and can therefore arrange safaris on your behalf. This also applies to certain other establishments that you may choose to stay at. Since your stay can handle all the details, this is the easiest option.
Alternatively, you can book a safari trip or wildlife package directly with the Park.
Spotting a big cat is a product of timing, patience and most importantly, luck. So far, I’ve failed at seeing a big cat in the wild. On the other hand, first-time safari-goers have managed to come in close proximity not only to a tiger but also to her cubs.
Unfair? Not really. It’s just the universe’s way of asking me to be patient. Till then, and even after, I will count myself lucky at being given the opportunity to observe other wild animals in their homes.
How about you? Have you seen a big cat in the wild?
