Some say it sucks, others say there’s nothing like it. So, what’s Santorini really like?

Ah, Santorini! The very name conjures up images of white-washed walls and blue domes, cobble-stone pathways flanked by the pinks and reds of bougainvillaea, the famed golden sunset overlooking the caldera, ochre-coloured hotels and infinity pools, and endless cobalt blues of the Aegean Sea, all perfectly snug in the caress of a gentle summer sea breeze. It’s the place to be, a must-see parcel of volcanic aftermath filled with beauty beyond description and endless panoramic views. It is bucket list-worthy, a destination for a luxurious holiday of dreams. And it’s all real; I’ve seen this with my own eyes.

This postcard-esque image of paradise in the body of an island is Santorini’s dating profile if it ever had one. It’s its best foot forward – a perfumed, seductive, I-woke-up-like-this-but-not-really Instagram model from among Greece’s many islands, the envy of those who aren’t Santorini. It’s what people love and come for. And it’s a lie.

Crafted by opportunistic photography, flowery words, and the promise of tourist dollars, what you see is definitely not what you get here. Beyond its siren song that lures ill-informed tourists, Santorini is nothing but a hyped, overrun and overpriced island that you’re better off skipping.

At least that’s what many disappointed bloggers will have you believe. Others will convince you, with pictorial evidence, that Santorini is crafted by the gods themselves.

The verdict isn’t out, a consensus is yet to be reached. Most people either fall in love with Santorini or downright hate it. Don’t take my word for it. Google will show you articles listing out reasons to add Santorini to your Greek island-hopping list, and an equal number of them warning you to stay away from this tourist trap.

So, who is right about Santorini?

As a travel writer, I consider it my duty to inform and educate readers – from my recommendations about a place and my favourite joints to eat at to budget hacks and where not to stay (Menandrou in Athens, for example). It’s also my duty to write about the truth.

Suggested read: My misadventures in Mainland Greece – Athens and Delphi

Back in 2018, I visited Santorini as part of my two-week summer in Greece. I left with lukewarm feelings, which only soured as time passed. Eventually, I reached a point where I was going to pen a post titled ‘Why everyone’s favourite Greek island did not blow my mind.‘ But in 2023, I look back at my time in Santorini with kinder eyes and a realization.

Santorini sucks.

It’s also breathtakingly beautiful.

The truth about Santorini

The quintessential Greek colours of blue and white dominate the upper arm of the caldera. In Imerovigli, Fira and Oia, you will find cosy restaurants, kitschy boutiques, and Instagram-worthy spots to boast about your trip. The photos you see plastered all over social media, with blue domes, teal infinity pools and sea views to die for? They’re all from this part of the island, which is one of the reasons to travel to Santorini.

Most of these locations, however, are off-limits because they are private properties – homes, churches and hotels. So unless you’re staying in one of the hotels – and they are pretty expensive – or signing up for a private photo tour, you need to bid adieu to that photo session that you had so excitedly planned.

Oia Castle is where you’d go to catch the Insta-famous sunset that paints the sea and sky the most beautiful gold and conch shell pink you’ve ever seen – a view that is hypnotic and alluring.

It’s also where crowds gather in the hundreds, cramming themselves into small cafes, crowding narrow streets, rubbing sweaty arms and shoulders against you and pushing their phones and cameras into your personal space, to take a photo of said sunset.

The Akrotiri archaeological site is evidence of an ancient Minoan civilization that dates back to 4,500 B.C., which had the misfortune of being destroyed not once, but twice – first by an earthquake, then by a volcanic eruption. The site is meticulously preserved and is bursting with history

It also doesn’t hold a candle to the ancient structures in Athens, Rhodes and Delphi in terms of size and variety, leaving many tourists disappointed.

The cobbled pathways and perfectly formed steps of Santorini feature in many a Reel, seeming like the perfect places to rest and capture memories.

But the pathways that are accessible to the general public are often littered with animal waste from donkeys (they’re absolute cuties) that carry luggage up the island, while the steps are one too many and can get steep, especially since you’ll be doing a lot of walking.

Santorini is home to some unique beaches. At the Red Beach, the Aegaen’s blue waters caress its rusty-red shores made of volcanic rock. Similarly, the Black Beach in Perissa has a shore of black and grey pebbles, creating a stark contrast against the vibrant blue of the impossible expanse of the sea before it.

The Black Beach gets super crowded, and the pebbly shores aren’t comfortable for anyone’s derrieres. Or for a barefoot beach stroll, especially during the day, when the black pebbles get very hot. To get to Red Beach, there’s a considerable walk from the parking lot or bus station, down a rocky cliff to get to the water. There are no chairs here, unlike at Black Beach. Both beaches have been called ‘gravel pits’ and ‘the worst beaches ever’ by travel bloggers.

Add to the above, service in restaurants is much slower than in other places in Greece. Tap water isn’t potable, bottled water is expensive. The ferry departing Santorini can get delayed by a few hours, and souvenirs here cost an arm and a leg. Tourists are rude and unhelpful. The summer mid-day heat is something else entirely, and the whitewash from the buildings is excellent at reflecting the bright sunlight, making it difficult to open your eyes.

A lesson in over-tourism and expectations

People love Santorini for its pretty – pretty villages, pretty hotels, pretty pools, and pretty sunsets. People hate Santorini because it doesn’t live up to their expectations of being as effortlessly pretty as they were told it is.

Social media, online content and most importantly, the ability to manipulate images and videos, have set unrealistic expectations about almost every travel destination, and Santorini is the blueprint. When we’re exclusively exposed to the lovely and quiet of Santorini but are purposely kept in the dark about the actual realities of the island, we’re left with lofty expectations that are sure to shatter.

Of course, Santorini is crowded! You and I aren’t the only ones who fell for its pretty face. We add to the crowd when we head there, whether on a cruise, by ferry, in an ATV or by foot. And of course, it’s impossible to get a good spot at the sunset point in Oia. It’s what has been peddled and pandered to the world to come and see, so why are we shocked when throngs of tourists arrive to experience what we want?

And Santorini isn’t the only victim of our desire for a destination free of the evidence of the not-so-pretty parts that shatter our illusion of paradise. Bangaram in Lakshadweep is a tourist-only island; the only locals who live there are the ones who work in the resort. This may appeal to many – to experience empty beaches that give a feeling of exclusivity and luxe. But Bangaram is a mere facade. It’s skin-deep. There is natural life and beauty and quiet. But there is no heart.

Santorini is just like any other popular tourist destination. It’s busy. It’s crowded. It’s smelly here, it’s expensive there. It’s also someone’s home and a source of their livelihood. It is beautiful in some parts and cacophony in others. It’s a symphony in the works, it’s perfection in progress.

It’s up to us to shatter unrealistic expectations set by social media and travellers who only tout the rosy parts of the island and to travel more sustainably and meaningfully.

The purpose of a place

Santorini isn’t paradise. It wasn’t born out of an apocalypse of a volcanic eruption merely to satisfy our desire for heaven on earth. Nor did it appear out of thin air with the sole purpose of being a tourist destination. Our desire to see the world has converted it to one and our lofty expectations out of it are stripping it of its genuinity.

Santorini has been there before you and me. It will be there for aeons to come. Its purpose isn’t to wow us with its existence – natural or otherwise. Its purpose is to simply exist for as long as it will, indifferent to whether we believe it’s a marvel or a mistake.

It’s fine to think that Santorini sucks and that it’s hyped. But is this the island’s fault, or our own?

So, is Santorini for you?

If you base your plans to Santorini only on picture-perfect locales and dreamy views on blogs and social media, you’re better off skipping it, especially in the summers. Save yourself time, money and disappointment. Instead, head to the Cycladic islands of Milos, Naxos and Paros for similar views but with a much more peaceful vibe (at least for now).

Suggested read: The ultimate guide to Greece on a tight budget

If you still want to visit Santorini, that’s a wise choice, because it really is quite beautiful. Here are some things that will help you.

When to travel to Santorini

Avoid summer months to leave behind the heat and the throngs. Winters in Santorini will offer you nearly-empty everything but don’t expect the weather to be balmy. It can get quite cold on the island.

The shoulder season should work – just before and after tourist season. March to May and late September to October see a lesser crowd (popular sights may still be packed), cheaper travel and stay fares and pleasant weather.

Getting there and around

I’m not a fan of cruises, but if you don’t want to stay on the island, a cruise ship is what works. Plus, you’ll have a set itinerary which will cover some popular Greek islands as part of the cruise package.

From the mainland, you can fly into Santorini. My preferred mode of travel to and from the island is the ferry. Speedboats are faster but they’re pricey, not to mention the sea sickness they can cause.

Where to stay

If you’re keen on private pools and spectacular caldera views, Fira, Imerovigli and Oia are for you. The hotels in this part of the island are expensive but offer a luxe experience.

What to do and see as a first-timer

Ignore the haters when they say there’s hardly anything to do in Santorini because they couldn’t be more wrong! There’s so much to see and do here beyond just chilling in your poolside hotel, brunching and clicking pictures.

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Archaeology and history

The archaeological sites of Akrotiri and Ancient Thera, and the Museums of Thera give a glimpse into the life and culture during the Bronze Age in Santorini. The island also boasts other museums – Folklore Museum, Maritime Museum, and Minerals and Fossils Museum are just some of them.

Beaches

The Black Beach, Red Beach and Kamari Beach can get packed, so time your visits. I’ve been to Black Beach and Red Beach, and honestly, I really liked them both.

Catamarans and kayaking

Beyond the beaches, you can swim in the inviting waters of the Aegean, and check out plenty of Santorini’s must-see sights from a catamaran. Better yet, kayak in the sea to explore secret caves and hidden alcoves.

Hike to Skaros rock

Skaros is a large rock formed by the very same volcanic eruptions that created the Santorini caldera. Due to its terrain, Skaros was a fortress, which was abandoned in the 17th century as Santorini moved their capital to Fira. The hike from Imerovigli to Skaros takes about 30 minutes and rewards those who make it with unbelievable views.

Santorini sunset

The Santorini sunset point in Oia will be intensely crowded, so make sure you head there early and grab a table in a cafe or a restaurant.

If you want to completely skip the crowds, get off at Megalochori, a village after Fira, and walk towards the sea-facing side. The sunset view from here is a different experience altogether.

Theatre

The village of Kamari is home to the Open Air Cinema, where movies are played with an old-fashioned outdoor projector ambience. It makes for a fun experience on summer evenings. To take part in the extravagance of traditional Greek events, head to The White Door Theatro to watch The Greek Wedding Show.

Walk between Fira and Oia

This is a 4-hour long undertaking and can get a bit taxing so take enough breaks. Still, exploring the prettier parts of Santorini by foot is a good experience to get acquainted with its boutiques, paved pathways and gorgeous hotels.

Wine tasting

While you can opt for a full wine-tasting tour, you will have to cough up some heavy bucks, although the experience may be worth it since Santorini is renowned for its Vinsanto wines.

If you’re on a budget, choose a wine sampling in one of the restaurants in Imerovigli or Oia. You get a few wines along with a cheese platter. Make the experience one to remember by grabbing a sea-facing table.

Helpful tips

• Since tap water isn’t drinkable, you will find yourself purchasing plenty of bottled water. This can get pricey in restaurants. Shop for packs of bottled water from supermarkets (not mini markets).
• To get a better flavour of local island life, explore Santorini by bus. Be sure to note down the bus timings at your bus stations. Also, the bus from Fira to Oia can get extremely packed, so much so that the four-hour walk to Oia seems like a better idea!
• Wear comfortable clothes – walking shoes, cotton fabrics, hats and sunglasses. Also, carry a light jacket or a shawl. Evenings in the higher parts and open areas will get nippy.

Most people come to Santorini armed with alien standards, and very little time, and expect to experience the best the island has to offer. But the best of Santorini is more than Oia and Fira, and more than sunsets and selfies. It takes time to unfold, and patience to appreciate. In the age of instant gratification, where impatience is at the forefront and fast travel is the norm, beauty that takes time to bloom is not only underappreciated, it is hated.

If you choose to head to this island, travel with zero expectations. Look beyond its dating profile persona. There’s a good chance you’ll then fall into the category of people who wax eloquent about the marvel that is Santorini.