If there are a few things that Pondicherry is renowned for, it’s its charming French Colony, the Sri Aurobindo Ashram, the cheap-ish alcohol, and the food. As the title clearly lays down the scope, I’m steering clear of the first two. There’s much to be said just about the food and drink; Pondicherry has a mélange of culinary experiences that it doles out to those who visit its sea-facing facade. And I intend to do the land justice.
Although the colonial-era French are long gone, they’ve left behind their legacy in shapes and forms beyond neatly paved rues, heritage mansions and chic boutiques. I’m talking edibles, and not the banned kind, although some border on the sinful. Baguettes with glossy jam, flaky croissants with soft, yellow butter, warm Croque Monsieur with cheese oozing from its edges, lightly-browned crêpes, and savoury galettes make their way to your breakfast plate, while lunch and dinner shine the spotlight on ratatouille, quiche, bouillabaisse, and Coq au Vin, with a glass of wine to wash it all down.
Of course, the indigenous Tamil population doesn’t shy away from reminding travellers that Pondicherry was, is and always will be their home first, and food that’s rooted in ingredients and concoctions of the homeland is what leaves us begging for seconds. Typical south Indian breakfast foods of steaming idli-vada and sambhar, crispy dosai with chutney, and frothy filter coffee are churned out each morning from every other eatery in this neck of the woods. For lunch or dinner, Malabar biryani, rice and meen (fish) curry or the simplistic rasam, vegetable poriyal (sautéed dish) and the decadent payasam are up for grabs.
There’s also the inevitable outcome of adding the desi and videsi into one pot. Over several years, French and Tamil flavours have blended rather harmoniously – unlike the architecture, where east and west have their distinct quarters – into an inviting local cuisine that’s at the heart of the Pondicherry food experience. This Tamil-Franco fare, better known as Creole cuisine, has restaurants and homes alike swapping traditional Indian spices for quintessential French ingredients and vice versa, so much so that the French Bouillabaise has taken on a new avatar as Puyabaise! Creole cuisine doesn’t care for limits. Much like the ever-expanding universe, more nuances are added to the Creole flavour profile (which is, for the most part, Indian) as more cultures join a typical Pondicherian family – Dutch, Portuguese, Vietnamese, Anglo-India, Oriya and Bengali.
My four days in Pondicherry – and my third visit – had me indulging in French, Tamil and Creole foods in as many restaurants and eateries as possible, partly because of my FOMO and partly because travelling in peak summer months demands one seek shelter in an air-conditioned establishment for as long as possible. While this isn’t a list of must-try restaurants or a post about the best places to eat, I’ve penned – as a solo traveller who isn’t picky about what she eats as long as it leaves her feeling uncomfortably full – my honest opinions on the flavours of Pondicherry.
Also read: Postcards from Pondicherry
Note: My spice tolerance is quite low. Most French restaurants don’t exactly throw heaps of chilli powder in their dishes.
Baker Street
Affordable Indo-French Café in Bussy Street. Ideal for breakfast and quick bites.
I got acquainted with Baker Street during my second visit to Pondicherry when I came to get my freediving certification. I didn’t clear the certification – a story for another time – but I did end up finding what would become one of my go-to eateries for French-influenced breakfast in Pondicherry.
A compact version of Candies in Bombay’s Bandra, this casual bakery-style space serves some delectable savoury dishes and desserts that work well for any meal of the day and is sort of pocket-friendly. A staff of sweetly smiling, saree-clad ladies await to serve in-house bread, meaty sandwiches and burgers, vegetarian and non-vegetarian quiche, pasta and lasagne, and a whole array of cakes, mousses and éclair.
At 7.30 AM, I was one of the first customers and ordered a chicken & olive sandwich, which didn’t exactly blow my mind or my palate. The bread was cold and hard, although the filling was the right amount of flavourful. That said, I gave Baker Street a second chance to redeem itself during my 2023 visit, and this time, it kicked the ball out of the park with every order!
Tip: Get there early (7.30 AM) or after breakfast hours (post 10.30 AM) to avoid the mad morning rush.
The Botanist Lounge
Café and bar in White Town. Known for its interiors, ice cream and cocktails.
While on the hunt for La Maison Rose – a classic French mansion dressed in pastel pink and soft green that’s dutifully preserved by Vieilles Maisons Francaises (VMF), a French organization that works to restore French heritage mansions across the globe – I realized that I had been to the building before. Coromandel Café has the privilege of calling La Maison Rose its home and turns out, so does The Botanist Lounge.
The interiors are the hero; colonial-chic, if that makes sense. A soothing colour palette welcomes eyes that desperately seek coolness after bearing the brunt of Pondicherry’s ruthless summer and godawful humidity. Deep greens of the potted plants and muted greys of the wall art and cupboards are offset by dull gold and aged browns of the furniture, which are topped either by berry-red or sky-grey upholstery. It’s a statement, telling you that you are, indeed, in a mansion that derives its heritage from the yesteryears of French occupation.
Tip: Find yourself a cosy corner at the low-key Botanist Lounge while you wait for a table at the popular Coromandel Cafe.
My order at The Botanist Lounge was a simple yet surprisingly delicious vegan mango ice cream topped with chia, flax and sunflower seeds – a little dose of health to help me tide the constant indulging that I would partake in for the entire duration of my travels here. My advice – drop by for the ambience, if nothing else.
Catamaran Brewing Company
Craft brewery in Anna Salai. Try their apple cider and mango cider.
When a lady residing in the pub capital of India comes across Pondicherry’s first and only (for now) craft brewery, she has to check it out, especially when it comes recommended by friends from said pub capital.
A visit during the daylight hours of a weekday isn’t recommended if you’re looking to sink into the typical revelry that only a packed brewery on weekend evenings can provide. But if you, like me, will do whatever it takes to avoid a crowd, you will travel to Pondicherry in the blistering heat of June, and you will visit Catamaran on a weekday afternoon.
Ignoring the plush velvet seating of the booths, I chose the bar and placed my go-to order at breweries that I’m visiting for the first time – their beer sampler.
While not a beer fan (no, really. I see no point in drinking anything that’s as bitter and gassy as beer; I’d rather enjoy a delicious cocktail, or even a mocktail), I’m always up for a refreshing apple cider, which the Catamaran Brewing Company blows out of the water. I also enjoyed what seems to be a crowd favourite lately – their mango cider. Named Slingshot, it is summer apropos with a light body, a refreshing aroma of mango, and a flavour profile that oscillates playfully between sweet and tart. I’m partial to the sweeter apple cider that they’ve named Chingari Cider, although IRL, the king of fruits occupies my heart.
I didn’t order any food, although their menu seems to cover standard brewery fare, south Indian, pan-Asian and continental dishes, while also throwing some interesting fusion recipes into the mix, like vazhakkai (plantain) nachos with mangai (raw mango) salsa. Maybe next time.
Chez Pushpa
Creole-style in-home dining in Ariankuppam. Ideal for a group of 3+.
Authentic home-style Creole cuisine seems to be a lost culinary art in the place of its conception, but the painstaking efforts and epicurean genius of Mamie (grandmother) Pushpa, through her ‘la table d’hôte‘ venture aptly titled Chez Pushpa, are keeping traditions alive.
A familial ambience awaits those who manage to get a reservation at this sought-after dining experience, where you enjoy a Creole meal with Mamie Pushpa and her family in their home. It’s a refreshing affair, especially since most travel dining takes place in the almost-impersonal settings of restaurants, cafés, kiosks and carts.
The flavour-rich menu for my lunch included nannari (Indian sarsaparilla) juice, duck vadavoum (a French take on the traditional south Indian spice blend vadakam) sauce, ridge gourd with prawns poriyal, chả giò (Vietnamese spring rolls), banana flower poriyal, white rice and rasam, and kesari for dessert. I regretted filling up on the Baker Street breakfast and The Botanist Lounge ice cream, which made it impossible to dive in for seconds here.
I have so much to say about Chez Pushpa that it warrants a separate post. Still, I’ll leave you with a few things. Come for the Creole food, stay for said Creole food and engaging mealtime conversations, and leave with memories of a one-of-a-kind dining experience.
If there’s one item in this entire list that I can bestow the hefty title of ‘must-do when in Pondicherry’ to, it’s dining at Chez Pushpa.
Coromandel Café
Award-winning Indo-French restaurant and bar, with an attached dessert-bar and bookstore, in White Town.
It’s so strange that I’ve dined at Coromandel Café four times so far, and only recently found out that it commands accolades such as being the 5th best New Restaurant in the World by Conde Nast Traveller. To me, it was a cutesy restaurant in La Maison Rose’s pretty salmon-pink building and palm-fronded courtyard, serving up quite an eclectic spread of food and drink.
Head inside for the best experience, where you are greeted by subdued colours. The whites and greys of the walls overlayed with dull moss-green depictions of flora complemented by warm golden lighting make for an inviting sight, while colonial-style furniture leaves you feeling all fancy and proper. And the air conditioning; good lord, the air conditioning!
Coromandel Café’s Hot Pink Eggs Benedict and Banana Bread French Toast make for the most mouth-watering breakfast, while their Mango Pad Thai Salad, Halloumi & Orange Salad, and Posh N’ Pink Tagliatelle are must-haves for lunch or dinner. All their fare is made with local produce – think cheeses from Auroville, chocolate from Mason & Co. (also in Auroville), veggies from Goubert Market, fresh catch-of-the-day from the Bay of Bengal – quite similar to La Villa.
I also like their simple yet uber-delicious grilled fish – garlic-butter-grilled fillet with mashed potatoes and grilled carrot in smokey paprika prawn bisque sauce – satisfying yet light enough to have dessert after, while their signature cocktails make for good meal accompaniments. I’m a sucker for The Street Herbologist, Elderflower & Cucumber Martini, and their in-house orange-infused vodka that the mixologist was kind enough to give me a shot glass full of. It was over glasses of these beverages that we figured out we were from the same town!
Gelataria Montecatini Terme
Gelato outlet on Promenade Beach Road
Don’t expect much from the Gelataria Montecatini Terme (GMT), except some damn-good gelato to be had by the Rock Beach.
Honestly, it becomes a necessity to grab a gelato from GMT, since walking along the beach can take its toll. Their signature Buongiorno, Stracciatella, Amaretto, Raffaello and Venezia flavours are quite popular, as are their experimental sugarcane, watermelon, chilli chocolate, and white chocolate variants.
Hot Breads
Affordable Indo-French bakery & café in Ambur Salai, White Town.
A friend dragged me to Hot Breads for a snack although I was intent on checking out Bread & Chocolate. I don’t regret it, mostly because I haven’t eaten at the latter’s Pondicherry outlet yet.
This bakery has a 30-year-old legacy of churning out fresh artisanal breads that locals tend to stock up on, while the attached café has simple yet filling options to choose from, perfect for breakfast or an evening snack. You can’t go wrong with their hot chocolate and sausage roll.
La Villa
Indo-French and Italian fine-dining restaurant in White Town.
I like that La Villa is set in a 19th-century French mansion that has a worn-out, lived-in facade as compared to the other fine dining establishments. A wave of peace and tranquillity you didn’t know you needed washes over you as you exit the tourist-packed Promenade and streets of White Town and step into the restaurant’s hidden, bougainvillaea-shaded courtyard, where you will be dining al fresco.
A promise of a short but flavourful menu that’s light on the tummy was enough to make my decision-paralysis flee. I opted for the prawns and smoked fish fusilli – cold-smoked fish and saucy shrimp on a bed of fusilli cooked al dente in a creamy bisque sauce, garnished with spinach and grilled pumpkin seeds – which tastes as dreamy as it sounds. Previously I’ve had their prawns coconut curry that packs creamy, coastal flavours which hit home in every spoonful, and comes in an actual tender coconut!
On my wishlist is Chef Michel Christmann’s 7-course tasting menu, and from their main menu, I’m eyeing the Pondicherry Crab Soup, Ricotta, Apricot and Walnut Salad, Sand Lobster and Seafood Parmentier Cream, and Lemon Tart.
In the absence of the showy and the pandering, La Villa wows with some unique flavours made with seasonal local produce, and, with its limited seating, there is a decidedly exclusive feeling that I’m a sucker for, even though you will often find me devouring pakodas-and-chai from little tea stalls by the streets.
Mahe Bar
Cocktail bar of Palais de Mahe in White Town.
Housed in the quintessential French Colony colours of mustard yellow and white are the luxurious Palais de Mahe’s Earth Café, the rooftop restaurant Le Alizes and their cocktail bar lounge Mahe Bar. The latter whips up some *chef’s kiss* cocktails that, truth be told, will have you walking around Pondicherry’s streets at night thinking you can excel at low-light photography, only to realize the next morning that drunken confidence will eventually be the death of you.
A weekday evening in June saw the bar empty; ideal for me since I love chatting with the staff behind the counter – they’re the ones who hold the true secrets to any place close to their chests. Over glasses of 12 Mile Limit – a heady concoction of white rum, brandy, whisky, grenadine syrup and lemon juice – and Connection – a simple yet delectable combination of Bailey’s Irish Cream and a generous amount of vodka – had me sharing bits and pieces of my life in exchange for insights into the bartenders’.
Maison Perumal
Premium Franco-Tamil heritage restaurant in Tamil Quarters.
This one has my heart! If you’re tired of staring at French mansions all day long, head to the Tamil quarters, where, in a nondescript street, you will find this gem of a hotel & restaurant in a 130-year-old Chettiar mansion, also a part of CGH Earth.
Maison Perumal is where you should go to sink your teeth into generous portions of authentic Tamil flavours. Opt for the courtyard seating, where the staff, dressed in Tamil-style lungis serve you items from their appetizing menu. Try their Vazhapoo Vadai – banana flower patties – and Karivepillai Varutha Meen or Era – fish or prawn wrapped with curry leaf paste and grilled to perfection.
INTACH Pondicherry, an Indian organization that works to conserve the country’s unprotected heritage – much like VMF – is a 5-minute walk from Maison Perumal. It could make for a good day to soak in some Tamil culture and heritage through food and architecture, no?
Mass Seafood Restaurant
Affordable breakfast and seafood eatery in Pichavaram.
It breaks my heart that I didn’t lunch at this eatery en route to the Pichavaram Mangrove Forest because fresh seafood is what they’re known for.
Still, being the first customer to be plated steaming idlis, crispy vada and hot sambhar, along with some good ol’ filter kaapi to wash it all down, is a sign of good things, yes?
Mass Seafood Restaurant is the only eatery for miles if you’re visiting Pichavaram. Their fish fry, prawn curry and crab dishes along with steamed rice have rave reviews from almost everyone who eats here.
New Banana Café
Affordable continental café and restaurant in Cazy Street.
Tucked away on the rooftop of an unremarkable storied house, New Banana Café offers what most restaurants in Pondicherry’s White Town don’t – a basic, laid-back ambience that’s evocative of shacks in Goa, Gokarna, and Varkala. Not many know of this place; I was introduced to it by Anita of Chez Pushpa.
Come by for simple yet flavoursome and filling cafe-style food that’s mostly continental, with some Indo-French. Service takes time, but Senthil – the main man behind this 15-year-old hidden gem – makes it a point to serve each diner himself, whenever possible.
New Banana Café plates up some delicious galettes, quiches, gratins and pies. I’ve only tried the chicken pie that’s super-filling, but I’ve heard you can’t go wrong with anything else either. You will have to earn your place here though, by enduring a three-flights-of-stairs climb, which I believe will only work up a stronger appetite.
Villa Helena
Indo-French and global restaurant in White Town.
More recommendations by Anita included Villa Helena’s creme caramel and cheesecake. And it was a no-brainer to dine here since I stayed on this 19th-century colonial-heritage property for my visit this time!
After a rather heavy lunch at Villa Shanti and a beverage at Le Dupleix, I decided to make just a teeny bit of room for dessert, but not before I cleaned a plate of olive oil and lime-drizzled smoked fish carpaccio as a post-dinner snack. I skipped the creme caramel and went straight for the cheesecake with raspberry compôte. It made for the perfect dessert to end a long, tiring day.
Looking back, I should’ve had at least one proper global-cuisine-inspired meal at Villa Helena beyond the complimentary breakfast. There’s always a next time. Plus, the Villa’s cat Peticia and I forged quite a bond, and I already miss her, so I have to revisit, right?
Villa Shanti
Premium Indian, Indo-French and European restaurant in White Town.
Restaurants have siblings too! Villa Shanti is the sister of La Villa but with the Ashram colours of austere grey and white, and a larger menu. Siblings, not twins.
Dining on the patio is a wise choice on breezy days or evenings, where chic white outdoor-dining furniture is set. Else, head to the café bar or the air-conditioned restaurant. As for the menu, there are tons of options across the French and Indian sections. Spoilt for choice, I went with my choice of a 3-course menu – the utterly refreshing Prawn and Pomelo Salad, the creamy Chicken Two-Way Cauliflower and the pièce de résistance, French Crème Brûlée.
Service isn’t too slow, even when the restaurant is packed. I recommend reserving a table, especially for dinner.
Pondicherry Food Trail Wishlist
The downside of not being a full-time traveller is the limited time available, and the downside of travelling alone is that portions cannot be split, and often, I end up over-ordering. Both leave me with little-to-no room to dine at all the places I wish to. But, I have a strong feeling I will be travelling to Pondicherry again, so it’s wise to make a food trail wishlist for what’s to come, no?
1 Rue Suffren – Drawn to the gorgeous bar if nothing else.
Bay of Buddha – Pan-Asian cuisine holds the key to my heart.
Bread & Chocolate – The Auroville one was packed with diners; I hear the Pondicherry outlet is just as good, especially for breakfast.
Café Des Arts – Said to be quite an Instagrammable space, so I expect it to be packed with people vying for a post-worthy capture. I have a feeling it’ll echo Kashi Art Cafe in Fort Kochi, only the white walls will be replaced with the quintessential yellow ones.
Chez Francis – Dune de L’Orient’s in-house restaurant is known for its French gourmet, Creole, and heritage Indian dishes.
Crêpe in Touch – For the crêpes, obviously
Le Dupleix – I was way too full from my lunch at Villa Shanti, so I only managed to gulp down a mint cooler here. Will be back for their limited but tempting French menu.
Les Alizes – Palais de Mahe’s restaurant has a limited menu of Pondicherry, Kerala, and Indo-French classics.
Les Saveurs – Croques, paninis, and tartines galore at this Promenade-facing French-themed restaurant, which also boasts of some supremely tempting mains like Eggplant Galette and Salmon Wellington.
Mass Seafood Restaurant – It’s a shame I missed out on the seafood.
Samosa joint – Anita gave me specific directions to where I can find this unnamed stall near Sounder travels, for mouth-watering samosas.
Sicilys – Next to GMT on Promenade, their wood-fired pizzas are said to be good.
Sri Kamatchi – the staff at Palais de Mahe recommended this non-vegetarian restaurant, and I trust locals when it comes to the authentic flavours of the land.
Surguru – Locals and travellers alike rave about the vegetarian food here, particularly their dosas.
Tanto Pizzeria – It’s worth the trip to Auroville, this! Their pizzas and pasta are drool-worthy. Been here a few years ago, and it definitely needs a revisit.
Xtasi – Another wood-fired pizza place, although I’ve heard their pies and barbecue chops are much better.
If history and architecture don’t interest you, the food in Pondicherry is just the reason you need to travel there. It’s worth the tan lines and sweat pooling in your clothes.
