The city of Bidjanagar is such that the pupil of the eye has never seen such a place like it, and the ear of intelligence has never been informed that there existed anything to equal it in the world.
Abdur Razzak, Ambassador from Persia
Vijayanagara – City of Victory. An empire long erased; all that is left is stone and ruin.
It is these stones, the ones man chipped away, the ones carved into magnificent structures and intricate sculptures, the ones rendered smooth by the elements, that are ripe with tales.
These tales are not ordinary. They are spellbinding, speaking of a time before the Rayas. They whisper the legend of princess Pampadevi, the human avatar of Goddess Parvati, and her devotion that captured Shiva’s attention, who offered to wed her as a boon. Thus, Shiva earned the name Pampapathi – consort of Pampa – and the land was christened Pampakshetra.
As the sands of Time trickled, the town fell into oblivion; until 1336. Legend speaks of the hound of the brothers Hakka and Bukka being chased by a hare it had been hunting, at the very spot that is Hampi. The brothers soon laid the foundation of their empire here.
Today, Hampi is famous as the capital of the erstwhile Hindu Kingdom of Vijayanagara. With earthy boulders, Dravidian-style monuments, expansive paddy fields, and the glittering Tungabhadra River, it is a conflux of dynasties, an open museum, and a time machine in stone.
A budget traveller’s paradise, Hampi is a haven for history lovers and adventure seekers alike. What makes it better is that a lot can be covered in just a weekend, without so much as letting your wallet know that it’s lost a couple of millimetres.
The ancient monolithic structures leave you in awe…
Atop the Hemakuta Hill stand many ancient edifices; our eyes seek the grandest of the lot – a monolithic Bengal-gram-bellied idol of the Hindu elephant god.
We place our palms on the toe of the Kadlekalu Ganesha; we are astounded by the scale. As we trace the mythical themes carved on slender granite pillars with our fingers, we cannot help but be transported to the era of the Rayas and beg them to divulge the workings of their artistic faculties.
A beatific legend states that a peasant woman commissioned the largest linga in Hampi, and the name Badava (poor) linga was bestowed upon it.
…as Hampi’s landscape renders you speechless
I climbed a hill whence I could see a great part of it; I could not see it all because it lies between several ranges of hills. What I saw from thence seemed to me as large as Rome, and very beautiful to the sight. There are many groves of trees within it, many orchards and gardens of fruit trees and many conduits of water which flow in the midst of it, and in places there are lakes…
Domingo Paes, Portuguese visitor to the Vijayanagara Empire
The birthplace of the monkey god may inspire you…
On the other side of the river lies Anegundi, the original capital of the Vijayanagara empire. Legend dictates that this is Kishkinda, the mythical monkey kingdom from Ramayana, and Anjanadri Hill is the birthplace of Hanuman.
We ascend six-hundred steps under the unforgiving sun – a small price to pay for the entrancing atmosphere atop the hill. A whitewashed shrine to Hanuman looks upon the green landscape as if in benevolence. The temple is a sanctuary to a lone rock floating in water – a piece from the famed mythical bridge to Lanka.
…to call on shrines to more divine avatars
King Krishnadevaraya was a lover – of art and architecture, of Lord Vishnu and his incarnations. When he conquered Utkala in 1513, he commissioned a temple to the infant Lord Krishna, immensely ornate and vividly colourful.
Today, Utkala is known as Orissa, and the temple is but a ghost of its past glory. Yet, remains of the gopura, exquisitely carved Yalis, inscribed epics, and an account of the conquest welcome us while praising gods and kings with hushed songs.
The slopes of the hill of gold beckon you…
When Shiva consented to marry Pampa, the gods reciprocated by showering gold upon a hill. Hemakuta – the golden hill – slopes imposingly, beckoning travellers to rest upon its smoothed surface.
Of all the Shiva temples on the hill, only one stands miraculously unscathed, albeit at the foot of Hemakuta – the Virupaksha Temple.
…while the stoic lakes transport you to your childhood
Sanapur and Kamalapur lakes are lined with coracles, their oarsmen always ready for visitors. We strike up a conversation with them, listening to their stories of the land, their lives, and their dreams, as we twirl gently on glassy waters.
The vast royal enclosure humbles you…
The victory of the Bahmani Sultanates at the battle of Talikota in 1565 commenced the end of the Vijayanagara empire. For six months the victors desecrated temples, pillaged royal coffers, and reduced sandalwood palaces to ashes. The last of the Rayas were no match for their predecessors’ statesmanship. The capital fell desolate; the empire a mere chapter in history’s pages.
We paint with imagination the discourses in the Durbar Hall, the glimmering brocades of silk swathed by courtiers at the Mahanavami Dibba during Dussehra, the hushed covert meetings in the Underground Chambers, the aqueducts that supplied fresh water to the entire town, and an empire at its zenith.
…before the river coaxes you to spend a few moments in solitude
The Tungabhadra river bears the same ancient identity as the princess from whom the land gets its name. In earnest it flows through the temple town, quenching people, animals, and crops as it did centuries ago.
The temples of old will have you chanting praises to their gods…
At the site of the nuptials of Shiva and Pampa stood a humble stone shrine. Here, devotees bowed vermilion-streaked foreheads to the divine pair centuries before the arrival of the Rayas, and continue to do so long after their passing.
The shrine is no longer simple. The many-tiered and sumptuously sculptured gopura of the Virupaksha Temple welcomes those who flock to offer prayers, observe fresco ceilings, and marvel at an inverted pin-hole image of the gateway.
The scent of incense envelops us as we step into the low-roofed inner shrine, the holiest place in the temple. Inside is a stone sculpture of a serenely smiling couple, smeared with reds and yellows, adorned in green silk. We bow our heads to Pampadevi and her consort Virupaksha as the priest pours coconut water into our cupped palms.
… just as the chambers of the royals will have you lost in their intricacies
The Rayas were an extravagant lot. They prayed, dined, danced, and did so impressively. For these purposes, they constructed an ornate structure – the Vittala Complex.
In the Vijaya Vittala Temple, they sang praises to Lord Vishnu, while outside, his vehicle Garuda lay in wait in his stone-chariot shrine. Ladies of the court danced as musicians expertly drummed their fingers on the Musical Pillars to produce scintillating tunes. Painstakingly chiselled Yalis welcomed ambassadors and common folk with their chimeric appearance. The royals were proud of their creations, evidence of their extravagance for posterity.
Hampi’s highest hill bestows you with a magical view…
An ancient trail, still intact, leads us to the top of Matanga Hill, the highest point in Hampi. A small shrine to the cult deity Veerabhadra stands unmoving against a backdrop of rivers, boulders, and plains.
We climb up the rooftop. Glasses of hot chai go around to keep the evening chill at bay, as the golden sun dips and lends a furious wash of colour to the cosmic canvas. We bid adieu to another day.
…while its homely flavours leave you wanting more
The hospitality of their ancestors continues with Hampi’s locals, who make visitors from across the globe feel at home with a multitude of cuisines – Indian, Continental, East Asian, Israeli, and Lebanese.
The hands of Time pull you into yesteryear at the Queen’s Bath…
When eyes fall on the opulent bathing complex that is the Queen’s Bath, time comes to a standstill, and one gets a peek into the luxuriant lives of the Vijayanagara royals.
The scent of flower garlands and perfumed water is long gone, and so are the royals for whom this complex was constructed. The sheen of the lime-plastered walls has faded, and many facets of the complex are no more. Yet, bubbling streams can be heard in the quietest of recesses, echoing lavish tales of consorts past.
…while the temple to the goddess of war pushes you towards the future unknown
In Anegundi stands a nondescript temple to goddess Durga, where the rulers of Vijayanagara prayed for strength and victory before going into battle.
Devotees continue to trickle in via the gateway of the Anegundi Fort. They tie colourful bundles to the tree, symbolic of their wishes.
The mighty elephant stables leave you impressed…
In the royal stable stood elephants mounted with glittering howdahs, trumpeting sonorously as they shifted their weight on their legs, eager for bales of sugarcane.
As we walk towards this 15th-century Indo-Islamic structure, we imagine these specimens – then thought to be privileged, now known to have suffered in captivity – carefully bred and selected to carry upon their backs trusted mahouts and members of the royal family.
…and the Lotus Mahal captivates you with its symmetry
Within the Zenana walls lay the Queens’ chambers, the Treasury, and the royal harem. The king’s wives, daughters, and courtesans would lounge under the shade of fruit trees. They would discuss their allowances and investments. They would trade secrets and gossip. And per the carved platforms of the Royal Enclosure, they would prepare for hunts.
Upon the Lotus Mahal, we rest our eyes. We gaze upon its elegantly carved walls. We see inlet spouts for water, which cooled the building during the hot summer months. We hear the tinkling laughter of the zenana ladies as they hurry up the stairs. The lingering scent of their trail and the chiming music of their anklets leave us inexplicably joyful.
Surreal sunrises and sunsets are the norm in Hampi…
Each evening greets us with a differently-hued sunset. One day, we drink in a burst of orange as the rain clouds gaily part in the sky.
Another day, we are shown a reserved view – of a river threading through the excrescence of granite, of a devout temple town, of swaying banana plantations, all paled by a palette upon which the gods have stroked the tips of their painted brushes.
…as are the multitude of shops and their colourful wares
We pick up keepsakes from the streets adjoining the Virupaksha Temple, and the flea markets on Hampi Island – memories of our quest for ancient legends and contemporary stories, a piece of magical Hampi for our homes.
Here’s a primer on Hampi
The land – On one side of the river lies the orthodox Hampi Village, where consumption of alcohol is prohibited. Hampi Island (Virapapur Gadde, Anegundi) is more laid back; here’s where you will find, and can consume (discreetly) recreational cannabis.
The people – The locals are friendly, hospitable, and always ready to help out.
The language – Although the native language is Kannada, most locals are multilingual, speaking fluent English, Hindi, Telugu and Tamil.
The surroundings – Hampi’s charm lies in its pastoral quality. Expect temple bells, dirt roads, cattle strolling, and monkeys on rooftops.
Safety – Hampi is perfectly safe for all kinds of travellers.
Travelling to and within Hampi
The village of Hampi is located near Hospet in the state of Karnataka, India.
Getting to Hampi is easy, especially if you’re already in South India. You can travel to Hampi via
- Bus – the bus station is in Hospet, from where you can hire an auto-rickshaw into the village
- Train – the nearest train station is also in Hospet.
- Car/bike – you can get to Hampi directly!
- Flight – Neither Hampi nor Hospet have airports; the nearest airports are at Bellary and Belgaum. These airports have connectivity to major Indian cities
Obviously, the first three options are the most pocket-friendly of the lot, with my preferred mode being the train – you get to see lush paddy fields en route; these truly are a healing sight for sore eyes!
Travel within Hampi can be undertaken on foot, rental bikes, auto-rickshaws or buses, depending on the season, distance and terrain.
Best times to visit Hampi
Hampi is generally dry and hot, with summer running from March to early June. This is the season you’d definitely want to avoid because the weather is quite unforgiving.
The monsoon lasts from late June to early August. November to February are cooler months, which is when the village sees a high inflow of travellers and tourists.
My suggestion? Try visiting between mid-August and early September. The weather is agreeable due to the waning monsoon, tourists are sparse, and prices are cheaper. 🙂
Staying in Hampi
Hampi Village and Virapapur Gadde are havens for budget travellers, while hotels in Kamalapur and Hospet offer better creature comforts.
I recommend staying at Archana Guest House in Hampi Village, and Mowgli Guest House in Virapapur Gadde. The former has a gorgeous river view and an attached restaurant. The latter also has a spectacular view of the river, from the opposite side.
Eating in Hampi
Eateries in Hampi Village serve only vegetarian food (with the exception of eggs), which is quite delicious and has a very home-food feeling to it. Anyone who’s been to Hampi will swear by Mango Tree for its hippie ambience.
If you still crave non-vegetarian food, check out Pink Mango in Kamalapur.
- Carry sufficient cash; the nearest ATM is in Kamalapur. Many places accept Paytm transfers.
- Carry sunscreen and an umbrella to stay protected from the sun and sudden rain spells.
- Carry a reusable water bottle, and snacks to tide the climbs.
- Plan your exploration by checking off sites that are closer to each other first – group the sites based on their distance from each other.
- Hampi is an active religious site. Don appropriate and comfortable clothing when visiting the Virupaksha Temple and the temples in Anegundi. Not only will you be shielded from the scorching heat, but you will also show the locals that you respect their culture and traditions.
- Haggle, if that’s your style. I didn’t mind paying the raised rates since tourism is the main source of income here. Nevertheless, if you feel like you’re getting a terrible deal, bargain fairly.
- Read about Hampi and its history. You won’t regret it.
- Hire a guide. The larger sites and temples possess many hidden gems that the internet does not reveal. I recommend Manju (+91 81236 58150) as a guide. His meticulous description of the monuments will leave you mesmerized.
- Hampi is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and the monuments are centuries old. It’s our duty to protect the town from litter and vandalism.
A Bonus Resource
Hampi.in is a comprehensive resource that offers everything from the best routes and itinerary maps to a detailed history of Hampi.
For you are dust, and to dust you shall return.
GENESIS 3:19
Hampi was birthed from legends, a capital with a long, prosperous existence under the sovereign rule of some of the most intelligent minds of the era – now a rubble of ruins.
These ruins are proof of the existence of a grand and flourished epoch. They leave us conversing with kings and commoners of bygone centuries and deciphering the thoughts that shaped this last capital of the last great Hindu Kingdom of Vijayanagara.
In dust, their legacy lives on.
